The deck of a house is generally a wooden platform built above the ground and connected to the main building. The origin of the term deck comes from the deck of ships. It is generally a flat surface, raised above the ground, that is supported surrounded by a railing. Most decks are constructed of wood type products.
Due to environmental concerns, composite decking (a mixture of two materials, typically wood pulp and recycled material such as plastic bottles or plastic bags) have appeared on the market. Proponents of composite decking have touted this as a much needed development as this helps to curb logging of trees for new decks. However composite decking has been found to contain harmful chemicals, cannot be refurbished, and despite claims from decking companies, the composite deck still attracts molding.
The first step in building your deck would be to clear the ground where you intend to erect your structure. Mark off the area that your deck will cover and remove all the sod. Slope the ground away from the house a minimum of 1" every 15' to provide drainage. Once the deck is finished, the ground should be covered with 6 mil. black polyethylene to keep weeds from growing.
Deck boards should be laid with the bark side up, and with both ends centered over a joist. Stagger the joints of side-by-side deck boards so they don't line up. Notch the boards around posts or other obstructions, leaving 1/8" space for drainage. Fasten the deck boards at each joist. Use two fasteners per support point for decking up to 6" wide, or three fasteners for wider boards. Deck screws or clips are generally better than nails, but all fasteners must be hot-dipped galvanized, aluminum, or stainless steel
As wood ages, it is common for cracks to develop. Large cracks (longer than the depth of the member) or excessive cracking overall can weaken deck framing. Toe-nailed connections are always at risk for splitting. Splitting of lumber near connections should be noted by the homeowner and the affected area should either be repaired or wood replaced.
Depending on how the deck was built, vital connections may have degraded over time due to various factors. Issues such as wobbly railings, loose stairs, and ledgers that appear to be pulling away from the adjacent structure are all causes for concern. The tightness of fasteners should be checked. If it is not possible to reach both sides of a bolt, it may be struck with a hammer. The ring will sound hollow with vibration if the fastener is loose. The ring will sound solid if the connection is tight. The hammer test is subjective, so the home owner should hammer-test bolts that can be confirmed as tight or loose, and compare the sounds of the rings to develop a control.
Stairs with four or more risers should have a handrail on at least one side. Handrail height should be between 34 and 38 inches measured vertically from the sloped plane adjoining the tread nosing. Many deck handrails improperly consist of 2"x 6" lumber or decking. Handrails should be graspable, continuous and smooth.
Electrical outlets are required to be installed in decks that are over 20 square feet in size, as stated in the 2008 NEC. Extension cords are likely to be used to run appliances on large balconies, decks and porches (greater than 20 square feet) if receptacles are not installed at these locations. Extension cords can be dangerous, especially if used outdoors and in wet conditions.
The Barrie Home Inspector is a Certified Building Code Official who has completed all the required Part 9 and Part 3 Ontario Building Code courses which includes residential decks. As a Certified Home Inspector this assures your home will be inspected by someone with the knowledge and experience to ensure that will have "Peace of Mind" when making your next Real Estate purchase.
Learn more about the Barrie Home Inspector. Stop by the Barrie Home Inspector's site. Have a woodstove or fireplace then you need Barrie WETT Inspection Services for all wood burning products.